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Removing decals from Lionel

 
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Propboy40



Joined: 21 Feb 2021
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 8:44 pm    Post subject: Removing decals from Lionel Reply with quote

Used to be you could use some fingernail polish remover and pull specific decals off production diecasts while preserving the underlying paint. Looks like the new Lionel diecasts don't allow that. Any insights or other observations on this? Curious if you have any other input.
Thx
Roger
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18degrees



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 834
Location: metro STL area, ILLINois

PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You try 91% alcohol? Not sure how that would affect die cast but it sure takes off printed stuff on plastic.
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Jim4130



Joined: 29 Sep 2020
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

they use automotive clear now and the tampo decals won't come off. I've just stripped them down.
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DaveVan



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
Posts: 1369

PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2022 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try lacquer thinner.....it used to work...
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Clyde Sledge



Joined: 07 Sep 2021
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionel does not use automotive clear on their diecasts. The entire graphics of the car are a wrap style decal now and have been for a few years. Lionel has even stated this several times. You cannot remove only parts of the graphics on cars from the Gen 6 era to now. The only way to remove the graphics is either bead/sandblast or heavy duty stripper.
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DaveVan



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
Posts: 1369

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clyde Sledge wrote:
Lionel does not use automotive clear on their diecasts. The entire graphics of the car are a wrap style decal now and have been for a few years. Lionel has even stated this several times. You cannot remove only parts of the graphics on cars from the Gen 6 era to now. The only way to remove the graphics is either bead/sandblast or heavy duty stripper.

Then I'd try Citi-Stripe....it will remove power coating.
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Clyde Sledge



Joined: 07 Sep 2021
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveVan wrote:
Clyde Sledge wrote:
Lionel does not use automotive clear on their diecasts. The entire graphics of the car are a wrap style decal now and have been for a few years. Lionel has even stated this several times. You cannot remove only parts of the graphics on cars from the Gen 6 era to now. The only way to remove the graphics is either bead/sandblast or heavy duty stripper.

Then I'd try Citi-Stripe....it will remove power coating.


Citri Strip does not work which is why I stated only blasting or heavy duty stripper will take care of the graphics on Gen 6 and newer diecast. I know because I have tried everything. I've been customizing diecast for over 20 years.
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DaveVan



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
Posts: 1369

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done may custom die cast too.....but mine are all old school Revell etc. The Lionel are to costly to strip for me!!!! I have never had Citi-Strip not work on models or real car stuff........if it don't work....must be some odd coating.
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Clyde Sledge



Joined: 07 Sep 2021
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveVan wrote:
I have done may custom die cast too.....but mine are all old school Revell etc. The Lionel are to costly to strip for me!!!! I have never had Citi-Strip not work on models or real car stuff........if it don't work....must be some odd coating.


CitriStrip will work fine on older stuff as will any other stripper. I stated in my post it will not work on Gen 6 and newer diecast. It takes more time than normal for the heavy duty stripper to work on them and their wrap. Some of the cars I've done barely clean up with blasting. The full wrap has no coating on it. It's just a graphic wrap applied to the diecast body. Lionel has stated this many times. If you've never worked on a Lionel Nascar diecast, then your reasoning of CitriStrip will work on anything is invalid.
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DaveVan



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
Posts: 1369

PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2022 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn't trying to fight you on it.......just offering what I have done personally. Sorry to offend you.
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bangor boy



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 367

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reading this thread with interest as I am looking to convert a Jimmie Johnson 2020 Camaro into Kyle Larson's 2021 title-winner.

I have the car pulled apart and ready to strip, prime, paint and decal (the nice 3 Amigos sheet).

Looking closely at this car's body, there is no raised profile of decals or graphics like we'd see in older diecasts that had layers of paint, decals and clear coat. This looks like just a single flat coating of body color and graphics all in one even, uniform, featureless layer.

Why fight it, says I?

I'm thinking it might be a lot less hassle to just sand lightly with fine paper, clean it and see how it takes light coats of Tamiya primer. If that goes well, it gets painted with Tamiya blue before decalling and clear coating.

Am I being lazy? Crazy? Or onto a viable shortcut? Any input appreciated.
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Clyde Sledge



Joined: 07 Sep 2021
Posts: 8

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bangor boy wrote:
Reading this thread with interest as I am looking to convert a Jimmie Johnson 2020 Camaro into Kyle Larson's 2021 title-winner.

I have the car pulled apart and ready to strip, prime, paint and decal (the nice 3 Amigos sheet).

Looking closely at this car's body, there is no raised profile of decals or graphics like we'd see in older diecasts that had layers of paint, decals and clear coat. This looks like just a single flat coating of body color and graphics all in one even, uniform, featureless layer.

Why fight it, says I?

I'm thinking it might be a lot less hassle to just sand lightly with fine paper, clean it and see how it takes light coats of Tamiya primer. If that goes well, it gets painted with Tamiya blue before decalling and clear coating.

Am I being lazy? Crazy? Or onto a viable shortcut? Any input appreciated.


You'd be better off stripping and painting. You have to sand quite a bit because even though it's "one layer," you can still see ghosting of graphics. Also not sure what is used for the wrap, but I have never gotten good primer adhesion of any kind when trying this method. Start with a fresh canvas. Strip it.
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bangor boy



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 367

PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2022 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Clyde.

I've got a 1 litre tin of one of the old toxic paint strippers that I've held onto for tough jobs. Not available anymore, of course.

Used to use it when milder strippers couldn't get the job done. The Dale Earnhardt #8 Charger - good donor car for Petty Chargers - is one seriously tough unit to strip. Last one took almost a week to get to bare metal.

I'll wait until warmer weather arrives here in Canada - snowed yesterday - and do the job outdoors in fresh air.
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Propboy40



Joined: 21 Feb 2021
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sat Apr 30, 2022 9:36 am    Post subject: Additional follow up Reply with quote

Well... I was able to get the wrap images off but it took some time. Stripped two cars one of which went pretty smoothly albeit it took time. The other... took quite a bit more time. Just had to be patient and keep re coating the stripper. Regarding Bangor Boy's comments... I have tried a couple times to just prime over existing paint schemes... and it just doesn't really work very well. Should work... seems like it would work... you would think it would work... but it just doesn't seem to work. Just gotta be patient and strip it down.

Thanks for all the responses everyone.
Roger
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bangor boy



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 367

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2022 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picked up some PTI brand aircraft stripper from a small airport parts supply and reno materials shop. It's the heavy duty stuff that should only be used outdoors. I work from an upwind position. Excellent, immediate results.
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