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Dale Earnhardt 1992 Lumina from The Winston

 
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 8:51 pm    Post subject: Dale Earnhardt 1992 Lumina from The Winston Reply with quote

This might not be the most exciting or interesting picture I've posted, but it's a nice step forward after taking a fairly lengthy break and narrowly avoiding disaster. After doing the Davey Allison and Kyle Petty cars from the '92 Winston, I had a thought: why not build Dale Earnhardt's car to complete the trio of cars involved in that epic finish?

I started prepping the body to make it accurate to that particular car. I also finally got a new desk and set up a permanent modeling spot instead of working from the kitchen table. Unfortunately when getting everything set up in my new work space, the car somehow got damaged, and it bent the nose of the car so far down it actually broke clean off the rest of the car!! After applying LOTS of sprue goo and doing some heavy duty sanding, it's good as new!

Otherwise aside from filling in seams, I removed the right side skirt, added material to reshape the bodywork coming off the rear bumper to the wheel, filled in the left side of the nose, scratch-made a new rear spoiler, drilled out a hole for the fuel overflow, and thinned out the material on the passenger side window area. I still need to reshape the bottom of the valence a little, but it's almost ready for primer.

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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 162
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I look forward to seing more of this one. You sir have proven to be a master when it comes to building impeccable black cars!
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Mack



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 715
Location: deep south

PostPosted: Mon May 17, 2021 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you're off to an outstanding start. Body work looks great.
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Last edited by Mack on Wed Jul 14, 2021 1:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember how I broke the nose off the car and fixed it up and was all happy that it was good as new? Well, I dropped the car again while sanding it and broke the nose again... However, I repaired it again and it's good as new again.

Here it is after priming:




After I painted the interior and the chassis with MCW Poppy Red and Tamiya TS-13 clear. Pictures don't do this paint justice, it's incredibly bright orange-red, beautiful stuff. I still need to paint the rollbar padding/window net/etc. so I'm excited to see how it looks once it has some other colors to contrast against.

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BW



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 206
Location: Lick Creek, Alabama

PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome work Dan! I suspect we've all had that time when we break something. again, and again. I know I have. Just have to take a deep breath and fix it. Looking forward to the next installment.
-Bobby
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2021 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to break the nose for a 3rd time. Don't ask... But it's fixed yet again! I've painted the body TS-30 Silver Leaf for the silver stripe, plus TS-13 clear over it to protect it when I mask it off to paint the black. I also experimented with masking off the inside of the body not only with tape, but also with some Mr. Masking Sol Neo. I left the liquid mask on in this picture so you can see how I applied it only around edges since I'm using tape too to help protect the inside as best as possible.

I've gotten a ton of work done on the interior detailing. I took a seat from an another kit and modified it to add a left side support and a headrest, then added some scratch built seat belts and carpet in the floorboard area. I also made some ignition boxes and wiring, plus a new mirror, and a couple different rollbars. I still need to add a couple small details to it like air hoses.





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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 162
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, that nose has been fixed fixed fixed real nice!
If I ever break my nose can I call you instead of the doctor?
Laughing
Kidding aside, this model is looking most promising.
What do you use for seat belts & hardware?
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think it's safe to fix a broken human nose with plastic sprue melted in Taimya cement. Laughing

The seat belts are made from strips of masking tape cut to size and painted flat black. The hardware pieces are made from thin evergreen plastic sheet cut to shape and painted silver. It doesn't look as nice as photo-etched, but much cheaper and still looks pretty convincing. I may try some actual photo-etched pieces for my next build to see if I think it's worth it.
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Gary Davis



Joined: 02 Feb 2018
Posts: 218
Location: Tacoma,Washington

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2021 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man...that interior looks Great!!!!
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 780

PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2021 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan, this is coming along perfectly. Such a clean beautiful build.
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

'92 Earnhardt update. Good and bad news...

Good news: The black paint went on beautifully, and it's mirror-smooth pretty much everywhere. The hood in particular is the best paint I've ever done.

Bad news: I have to redo the silver stripe work. (That's why I haven't even bothered to remove the liquid mask from the inside of the car body) You can see the rough spots it left around the edges of my pieces of tape.




I had a fly decide to land in my wet paint when doing the roof, so I had to wait for it to dry, sand it smooth, re-prime, re-paint, etc. and do all of that while we had extremely raining weather which caused delays, which all meant my masking tape had to stay on for a long time. Maybe that's what caused the problems, even though I cleared the silver and let it cure for several days before putting the tape on. (I also had one small run in the silver area, but other than that the tape at least gave me sharp edges!) You can see on the nose where I tried to sand out the rough spots it left in the silver, but it didn't help and will have to be re-painted.
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Tom M.
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Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 488

PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had non-Tamiya masking tape do that to Tamiya paint. I suspect they use an alcohol-based adhesive and the alcohol attacks the lacquer paint.
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2021 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was actually Tamiya brand tape that did that. Really surprised me!
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been pretty busy lately, but I have been getting some work done on this when I can. Just a quick cell phone picture for now!

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Gary Davis



Joined: 02 Feb 2018
Posts: 218
Location: Tacoma,Washington

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That really looks good!
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Henryjint



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 1479
Location: NY State's Hudson Valley

PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2021 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a mirror finish!!!
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bangor boy



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 295

PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2021 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your painting technique is superb. Can you share any details about it with us?

Airbrush? Rattle can?

Brands of paint? Thinning proportions? Masking details?

Playlist - winelist!? - while you work?

Inquiring minds want to know.
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 162
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2021 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, is there anything harder to do than black?
You sir are the master of black!
Twisted Evil Twisted Evil Twisted Evil
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 139

PostPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the lack of updates. I have had to take a break for my mental well-being.... Despite test-fitting on a regular basis being fine up until now, the body wouldn't fit on the chassis!!! Evil or Very Mad While fiddling with that, the nose broke off again!!! Evil or Very Mad So now I have glued the nose back on and am sanding away the inside of the body and parts of the chassis to try and make it fit better, it's getting there but needs some more work, then I'll have to repaint the inside of it again AND repaint the outside where I repaired the nose.

bangor boy wrote:
Your painting technique is superb. Can you share any details about it with us?

Sure!
bangor boy wrote:
Airbrush? Rattle can?

Both. The black paint on this is straight from the can, the red is airbrushed.
bangor boy wrote:
Brands of paint?

The black is Tamiya, and the poppy red is MCW. The clear coat is also Tamiya. I like to use lacquers since they dry fast and smooth and polish up very well.
bangor boy wrote:
Thinning proportions?

The MCW paint is already properly thinned for airbrushing right out of the bottle. The Tamiya paint I use right out of the can usually, but sometimes I'll decant it and airbrush it, and it's already thinned perfectly for that too.
bangor boy wrote:
Masking details?

I use three different kinds of masking tape depending on the situation: Tamiya's regular tape and curve tape are wonderful, and for big areas/places with long straight lines I actually use Frogtape delicate surface painter's tape from the hardware store. One thing that helps sometimes is to spray a little clear coat around the edges of the tape shortly before painting. If there are any spots prone to bleeding, some of the clear coat can get in there and block it.
bangor boy wrote:
Playlist - winelist!? - while you work?

Laughing I'm a huge fan of Steely Dan, and dry red wine (old vine zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon, and shiraz are my go-to wines)

My technique for actually painting... I lay down a couple of mist coats about 10 minutes apart, then a wet coat. I try to put down the wet coat right up to the point where it's on the verge of running. After that's dried at least 24 hours, I sand it smooth with high grit sandpaper, wet sand with light pressure and just keep going up the grits. It's probably overkill at this part of the process, but I like to use Tamiya polishing compound to get it even more smooth here. Wash it really well with dish soap and water and dry. Then it's time for another round of painting, with the same exact process as before. Depending on how the paint is looking, I might even do a third coat. On the final coat, I use all three grits of Tamiya polishing compound to really buff it out smooth. After that, it's time for clear coat, same exact technique as the paint.
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