Randy Ayers' Nascar Modeling Forum

[Mach2]

I'm feeling better and was able to put this How To together today. Man, it feels good to work on models. Can't do it too long, but it sure feels good. It was a little tricky using one hand, the left one with two fingers and thumb that are partially numb and tingling.

Here are the parts I use.


This pic shows the curve from fwd to aft of the 03-05 kit window. These steps work on all windows from 1999 to the 2007 monte including dodge intrepid and ford taurus & fusion. 1st step is to sand this curve so it's flat across the top from fwd to aft, which will make it shorter in the middle than at both ends.


This pic shows the angle, from the side, that needs to be maintained during the sanding process.


Once sanded, the kit blade looks like this. Please excuse the fuzziness of this pic and a few others coming up. While using the left hand to take the pics I must have bumped the zoom off the Macro setting.


Now you can see, well almost due to fuzziness, that the kit window blade has been sanded flat across the top from fwd end to aft end. It's ready for making the new, taller blade.


I've marked the piece of .015" thick x .100" tall #115 evergreen strip styrene with a forward angle at the front and the line where the single piece of blade becomes two.


The front blade is cut and now I'm marking the aft blade at the aft end. As you can see, I've corrected the zoom setting on the camera back into the Macro setting. Sorry bout that.


Here are both pieces cut and ready for attachment to the sanded flat kit window blade.


Here's the items needed to glue the blades.


This was a tough pic to take, but it's done. Hold the cut, made, piece in tweezers and wipe it across the testors liquid glue brush. This put enough glue on the blade to glue it to the sanded flat kit window blade. I use testors liquid glue initially in case it has to be move into a better position. Tenax 7R glues it immediatly.


Here's a pic showing the glue wetted blade being put into position.


This shows both taller blades glued into position.


Here's a pic looking down the new blades, well you can almost see it. At least pretend you see it.


This shows the Tenax 7R being applied after the testors liquid glue has dried. I swipe both sides with Tenax 7R.


Now all you have to do it take some bottled gloss black paint and paint the taller blades and the base, carefully, with a small brush.

Throughout the pics, and especially the top pic, you can see where I've marked the clear top of the plastic that holds the whole one piece window as one piece. I cut on these lines and have found the this allows quite a bit of movement and the window will fit the body much easier. Give it a try.

Any questions on this How To, just ask. Happy Modeling.
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Mick

[bigdave031]

Mick this is great and in record time.

[bigdave031]

Mick for those of us that don't have a steady hand would it be a good idea to put some tape on the window in case the sandpaper slips.

[Mach2]

[James P]

Thank you for another great how to.
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O my, you don't see that every day.