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Tip Needed: cementing body to chassis side rails

 
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 808
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:12 pm    Post subject: Tip Needed: cementing body to chassis side rails Reply with quote

Bit of a gap I need to close, and in the past have used a rubber band to keep the body snug against the chassis/frame sides when cementing. Not the best method, so looking for any tips... thanks in advance.
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Dennis O
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Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 876
Location: Louisville, Ky.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ever considered not cementing the body? As my models age, sometimes windows fall out or a shift lever comes loose and I just take the body off and repairs are much easier. If that is not an option would adding a thin Evergreen plastic strip (obviously painted properly) down the frame rail close the gap sufficiently?
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spooker



Joined: 11 Feb 2018
Posts: 437

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I have to spread the body to get the chassis in (curved sides), I never glue the body to the chassis. If the body can slip straight on/off (straight sides), I glue in the most inconspicuous spot I can find, sometimes the firewall top and rear package shelf. Also depends on the era and body style.
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 808
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response - but here 's the thing: This is a '70s body and the casting settled a bit wide at the rocker panels-could use a little tucking in. Glueing to the frame rails will fix that nicely.
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 270

PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have made blind cleats inside the body to help position the chassis or interior. This also provides a nice gluing surface. If possible add the cleats along the sides of the body and the chassis to give you a glueing surface

An example of a cleat is the square tubing glued to the back of this truck cab and the interior tub.

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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 270

PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another example: the sides bow out on this '55 Chevy and didn't allow the body to fit the chassis properly. I glued cleats along the door sills and added mounting pins to the chassis.




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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 808
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

afx: Impressive!
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bill. Hope it gives you some ideas.

JC
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 378
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a super neat way to do it, particularly with 50's and early 60's cars with straight body sides.
More challenging with a 70's body with a lot so curves coming down.
Bill, hopefully if you're not painted yet, hot water dip and bend it in a bit?
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Bob B



Joined: 22 Nov 2020
Posts: 67

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great discussion and practical tips.
Thanks for sharing guys!
Bob B
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 1296

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also use your wife's hair dryer. If she doesnt mind. Leave it unglued if you can, but most amt 50's and 60's models have serious fit issues when it comes to body to chassis. Usually front to rear. You get the front to mate but then when you try to get the rear to come together it's like a major undertaking. I've had to use small screws sometimes in the past.
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