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StuBeck
Joined: 12 Feb 2019 Posts: 20
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Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 12:22 pm Post subject: Making a more realistic 99 Pontiac Grand Prix |
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I have an idea to make as realistic of a 99 Grand Prix in road course trip as possible for Irvan's last car. I know this is car modeling and you can go nuts with add-ons, but I'm specifically wondering about kitbashing a later Revell kit to bring over additions such as a more realistic engine and other items not included on the stock kit.
I already have a new detail master grill I intend to use, but the other area I'm looking for is whether anyone ever made after market window glass? The side glass is rather poor on these kits and not accurate. |
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octopusmotor
Joined: 19 Mar 2018 Posts: 111
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Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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I've never come across a source for replacement side glass. I tend to thermoform my own replacement glass and cut whatever inlets I need, and then make thermoformed NACA inlets to put behind them.
About two or three years into the run of that body style, the front clip was extended and the headlight/grill/etc. sat a little lower. The rear clip was also reshaped - IIRC, the "bumper" was squared off and the sides of the taillight panel were also squared up. It's fairly noticeable if you compare the glue kit's front end to pictures of the real thing. There used to be resin front and rear clips for the Revell Grand Prix but I don't know if there are any on the market now. The kit body can be altered with plastic and putty but it takes an artist's eye to make the effect work.
Jodie Peeler _________________ "If you have the chance to make something beautiful, and you don't...well, what does that say about you?" - Dan Gurney |
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StuBeck
Joined: 12 Feb 2019 Posts: 20
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Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Any tips on thermoforming pieces? I've never done it but that does seem like a great idea.
Sounds like my idea for super detailing might not be getting off to a great start though as the Race Ready Replica front and back pieces are no where to be found from a quick google search. That might make me pull back on the crazyness I was thinking of doing. |
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DaveVan
Joined: 27 Jan 2018 Posts: 1573
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Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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google home built vac former......a small unit is easy to make. |
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martinfan
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 270
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Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:13 am Post subject: |
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octopusmotor wrote: | I've never come across a source for replacement side glass. I tend to thermoform my own replacement glass and cut whatever inlets I need, and then make thermoformed NACA inlets to put behind them.
About two or three years into the run of that body style, the front clip was extended and the headlight/grill/etc. sat a little lower. The rear clip was also reshaped - IIRC, the "bumper" was squared off and the sides of the taillight panel were also squared up. It's fairly noticeable if you compare the glue kit's front end to pictures of the real thing. There used to be resin front and rear clips for the Revell Grand Prix but I don't know if there are any on the market now. The kit body can be altered with plastic and putty but it takes an artist's eye to make the effect work.
Jodie Peeler |
I believe Revell made changes to the GP body for the Pro Finish line, I am not sure if its more accurate , but its not the same body that was in the first run of the GP kits. I know the front clip does sit lower on the Pro Finish body the sides of the rear bumper do seem to be squared. |
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octopusmotor
Joined: 19 Mar 2018 Posts: 111
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Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:22 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the information on the ProFinish body. All the Pontiacs I presently have are the full-glue kits, so I wasn't aware of the differences. That sounds like a much better starting point for a 1999-and-after project.
About thermoforming windows, all I do is create the master of the window I want to reproduce, usually by modifying the kit part. That gives me the outline and curvature and everything. I'll mount that on a stick of some sort and secure it to my workbench. I then heat some clear plastic (cut from a supply of .020" PETG I bought off eBay a year or two back) until it gets saggy, and then I'll carefully pull that over the master part. When it cools, there's your window, ready to be cut out. I also make my own NACA inlets via a similar method, though that gets kind of tricky.
Jodie Peeler _________________ "If you have the chance to make something beautiful, and you don't...well, what does that say about you?" - Dan Gurney |
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StuBeck
Joined: 12 Feb 2019 Posts: 20
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Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:19 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the info! Guess I'll avoid working on this kit until I can get my hands on a profinish body. What do you use for removing the predone finish on the kit? |
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bigryan18
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 190
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Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:36 am Post subject: |
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91% alcohol works well.. |
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Tom M. Board Moderator
Joined: 01 Feb 2018 Posts: 602
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Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2019 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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StuBeck wrote: | Thanks for the info! Guess I'll avoid working on this kit until I can get my hands on a profinish body. What do you use for removing the predone finish on the kit? |
They made unpainted kit versions of the Pro-Finish style GP also. |
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martinfan
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 270
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StuBeck
Joined: 12 Feb 2019 Posts: 20
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Posted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Great! Do you know if there is a site that has all these updates in a list of some sort? Its been so long since I built a NASCAR model, that knowing which is teh most accurate 97 Thunderbird kit for example has been lost. |
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jjsipes
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 298
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