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How to do the small details on 2000-2006 builds (Restored)

 
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 12:11 am    Post subject: How to do the small details on 2000-2006 builds (Restored) Reply with quote

This is copied and pasted from the web archive of the old board. It was originally posted by Mach2.


Some of you have asked how I build these monte's so quickly. This WIP will be a walk thru and you'll see how it's done. First thing is, since I don't build the engine and detail the chassis, I trim all the parts that will be used from their trees and am left with this. I've already glued the upper A arms and front suspension piece to the chassis as well as the oil tank, springs, rear shock's and their bar and the rear axle assy to the chassis. I glue the roll cage aft cross bar to the RH cage piece, then glue the LH cage piece to the cross bar using Tenax 7R, then a half hour later I clue the firewall to the 3 piece cage and now have the roll cage box that is removable from the chassis. All this takes a couple hours one evening. I take a drill bit and slightly enlarge the holes in the rear axle and use evergreen #212 .100" plastic rod for the rear axle. I use evergreen #222 1/16" plastic rod for both front axles, and use a #52 drill bit and slightly open the holes in the front wheels. I remove 1/16" from all three body mount posts and drill new holes in each spindle with a #51 drill bit just above the existin holes as the spindle comes from Revell. You can just make out the two holes in the LH spindle in the pic above. There are a few more things I do to allow the body to drop down and will be using pic's to show that too as this thread, and build, progresses.






When you shorten the body mount posts to make the body drop, I've found a couple places you have to trim to allow the body to drop as far as it can go. One place is the top four corners of the roll cage. These four points touch the inside of the roof, so I put the top cage piece in place with the rest of the roll cage and sand these four corners down. You don't want to go too far or you'll sand thru the holes for the top piece to fit into the rest of the cage. The second area that restricts the body from dropping fully is the interference with the back of the cowl and the front of the dash. Put the cage onto the chassis, install (don't glue it) the dash in place and install the top roll cage piece and Earnhardt bar into the dash. Now that you've removed a 16th of an inch from the three body mount posts the body will be lower on the chassis and you now need to mark the front of the dash where the interference is.











Well, here goes for an updated 06 & newer fuel filler. I copied and pasted this from the Tips & Tricks Forum, but some may not know it in that Forum.


Adhesive & putty



Parts, 1/4" Evergreen plastic tube & 1/8" Evergreen plastic rod. #105 7/32" K&S aluminum tube & #104 3/16" K&S aluminum tube.





Micro balloons, and it doesn't take much and be aware it's like a fine powder so when you take the red cap off BE CAREFUL. You may get a cap full on the work area.




Cut a short length of 1/4" plastic tube, hold it at the angle you want and with the finger of the left hand holding the body and the piece of 1/4" plastic tube at the angle you like, squeeze a little green bottled Zap-a-Gap into the funnel to initially glue down the plastic tube. It doesn't take very long and you can let go of the body and plastic tube in your left hand.



another view



Now take some micro balloons, or if you don't have that use baking soda. Squeeze more Zap-a-Gap into the funnel on the outside of the plastic tube and pour in the micro balloons or baking soda, then take a toothpick and stir up this mix inside the funnel, outside of the plastic tube. It'll look like this.



another view



After you've done this a couple times, to get the Zap-a-Gap/micro balloons/baking soda dried mix above the rear quarter body line, cut the tube with an x-acto knife and start sanding. I like to use these flexible double sided fingernail files from WalMart. One side is rough and the other side is not so rough, and they're flexible and work nicely. I use blue painters tape around the LH corner of the rear spoiler and the LH trunk hinge to protect them during the sanding process.



Once you get it close to being flush to the body line



mask off around the outside of the area and drill the inside of the 1/4" plastic tube till the larger diameter 7/32" K&S aluminum tube fits inside the 1/4" plastic tube.



Leave a short piece of aluminum tube inserted and apply the Bond glazing & spot putty to build the area up.



Once the putty is dry, start sanding the area flush to the surrounding area



till it looks like this. Cut a length of 7/32" aluminum tube short enough so it fits inside the drilled out plastic tube, cut a slightly shorter piece of 3/16" aluminum tube so it is slightly below the larger aluminum tube. Cut a piece of 1/8" plastic rod slightly taller that the short piece of 3/16" aluminum tube and paint or use a black sharpie on the end of the plastic rod.





Almost done now, here's what it looks like




Here's two very helpful tools, a 6 fluted 100 deg countersink to champfer the aluminum tkube inside diameter, the plastic tube and the plastic surrounding the hole where the pieces of aluminum tube and plastic rod assy goes.



This was also cut & pasted from the Tips & Tricks Forum, and there's no reason it won't work on anything 2000 & newer.


I've been toying with this idea for a while now, since I didn't like the results of cutting the 06-07 molded skirts shorter, then glueing skirts made from .015" or .020" thick x .250 strip styrene. I made the new skirts protrude out from the body and the real Cup/Nationwide/Busch skirts are flush to the side of the body.

Cutting tools to remove the kit molded skirts at the top of the skirt, where there's a line;



Here it is with the kit molded skirts removed. Carefully cut the kit molded skirts off and sand the edge flat;



Here's what I used to get started. I glued short strips of evergreen .030 x .188 strip styrene to the sanded flat bottom of the body. These strips will be the base for the new skirts to glue to. Be sure to leave both side of the body open where the jack points are and the area where the exhaust will exit, either the LH or RH side of the body. This build will have a RH exhaust exit. Glue these tabs to the body flush to the inside of the body, this leaves appx. .015" to .020" to the outside of the tabs for the new skirts to end up being flush to the outside of the body;











Once this is done and the liquid glue, or Tenax 7R, dried I got started on making the skirts. I used evergreen .020" x .250" strip styrene. Cut each 3 1/2" long, and then angle cut them 5/32" in the front and 7/32" at the back for that tapered skirt result. Mark the body where the jack points are and the exhaust opening, hold the skirts up to each side and mark these points. I use a paper hole punch to cut the jack point curved access in the skirts and drilled two small holes in each corner where the kit exhaust will protrude thru the skirt. Take a sharp #11 bladed x-acto knife and cut out this rectangle opening;



I used testors liquid glue to attach each skirt to the tabs applied earlier. Once the skirts are glued to each side, trip the length to match both sides, front and rear;

Looking inside the LH side of the body;



Looking inside the RH side of the body;



Well, what do you think?









Another option to flush side skirts is this method. This build is gonna be a short track car so the exhaust exits the drivers side. I didn't add any skirt to it, just decided to do flush skirts this way, for this build.

A close-up of the LH stock skirt.




A close up of the modified, by sanding the stock skirt flush to the body.




I use WalMart fingernail/toenail cheapo sanding sticks, rough (black), medium (green), and fine (pink).



This method leaves the molded line between the body and skirt too. Not a lot of work either. thumbsup
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