Randy Ayers Nascar Modeling Forums

[jh63fan]

Noticing builders have been using 2K clear on projects and thought I would give it a try. For those not familiar with the product, it is an automotive clear with an activator in an aerosol can. Once mixed, it has about a 2 day usage.
My questions are what are the do's and dont's as far as what to spray it over (compatibility), technics, humidity affects, ect. Thanks

[Len Woodruff]

Use a mask for the 2K clear. You don't want to breath that stuff.

Also Dupli-Color has a new 1K clear that I have used. I like it with none of the downsides of the 2K.

[volkerc]

I don't use aerosol cans but the stuff car painters use. So I only mix the paint, clear coat, base whenever I'm ready to paint and only the amounts needed. Use my trusty compressors and spray guns. I clearcoat all decals and been doing it for decades. Including on my real cars. Had been told not to do it on my real car, but the decal is still there, not faded, not cracked after 13 years on the car body. On model kits I use the same paint, from body filler to base to clear coat. Problem is you have to find the right balance of thinning the paint and not overdo the amount or the fine details will get lost. I also sand the paint like I would on a real car up to 3000 grit for polishing the paint. Let's say I want a red car like the Chicken Pit special I posted I would apint the car red, then let it dry a few days, sand it to scuff the paint, apply the decals and then clear coat it. After each coat I let the clear dry and sand and keep going to add clear, sand, clear, then polish until I'm satisfied with the result. Reason I sand the red is to give the clear something to grip to. First clear coat should be a thin mist and dry to not damage the decals, not lift them, not to smear the ink.