View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
hurricane21
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 185 Location: Fayetteville NC
|
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 2:22 pm Post subject: Tamiya Acrylics Issues |
|
|
Does anyone have any positive experience taping with Tamiya Acrylics? I’ve switched to the expensive Tamiya tape and I’ve left paint jobs to dry for over a week and I still end up with the paint ruined when I tape off for multi color paint jobs. The stuff never seems to fully harden. Should I just switch to traditional enamels and give up the acrylic stuff or am I missing something. It seems almost like it needs a hardening agent added to it but I’ve never seen that discussed anywhere before. I’m at a loss. I switched to airbrushing Tamiya Acrylics from spray can enamels and I’m at the bill be of my rope. Even very light pressure on the tape leaves the paint underneath destroyed. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
DaveVan
Joined: 27 Jan 2018 Posts: 1526
|
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 2:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I only use the Tamiya water based paint to brush paint small parts.
For body paint jobs I use Tamyia TS spray cans with some Duplicolor spray cans.
I have had issue air brushing Tamiya water based paints. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
octopusmotor

Joined: 19 Mar 2018 Posts: 111
|
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 5:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
For whatever it's worth I don't have difficulties with airbrushing Tamiya acrylics or with paint lifting. Experience has taught me that Tamiya acrylics really want to be thinned with Tamiya's own thinner. I used to thin with water or with isopropyl, but using Tamiya thinner is what has made them work best with me.
I don't know the specifics of your situation, so I offer this for whatever it's worth.
Jodie Peeler _________________ "If you have the chance to make something beautiful, and you don't...well, what does that say about you?" - Dan Gurney |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
TiminToledo
Joined: 24 Jan 2022 Posts: 72
|
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 9:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have not used Tamiya acrylics on exterior/body in striping, but I do use them on interiors. There are so many shades of gray for different interior surfaces. I have had success with taping seat inserts and things like that using Tamiya tapes and airbrushing the acrylics.
For airbrushing, I thin roughly in the area of 60-70% paint, 30-40% X20 thinner. Then I lay it on in fairly thin coats. Doing that, I have not had the issue of paint lifting underneath.
May want to experiment with thinner mix a bit and see if that improves.
Not the best picture, but the seats are acrylics. Light color first, then taped and airbrushed the darker.
 |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hurricane21
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 185 Location: Fayetteville NC
|
Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 11:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Just to elaborate a little. My biggest problem is wherever the tape touches the paint it leaves indentations and marks on the paint. It’s like the paint is still soft a week later. I’ve had this problem ever time I tape over it. I barely put any pressure the tape; I just rest it across the body and it still leaves marks. It’s like the the tape presses down onto paint and when I peel it off I can see the texture marks from the tape on the paint. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
kurth
Joined: 06 Feb 2018 Posts: 57
|
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 9:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
What are you using for thinner? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hurricane21
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 185 Location: Fayetteville NC
|
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 10:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
I'm using Mr Hobby for thinner. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
lefty1820
Joined: 17 Sep 2019 Posts: 280
|
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 10:40 am Post subject: paint issues |
|
|
What are you using for primer?
I use Mr White surfacer 1000 and Scotch brand tape in green label for masking. I have both 1/2" and 3/4" tape dispensers on my desk. This tape is a lot thinner than Tamiya masking tape.
I can have a car or airplane painted and decaled in the same day when using Tamiya paints.
Good luck. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hurricane21
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 185 Location: Fayetteville NC
|
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 11:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
lefty1820 Quote: | What are you using for primer? |
Now that you mention it I have recently switched to a different primer. I think its Rustoleum. It's thicker than I typically use. Could that be it? Does it need an unusual amount of time to dry because it's too thick? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
lefty1820
Joined: 17 Sep 2019 Posts: 280
|
Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2022 6:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hurricane,
How are you applying the primer? Airbrush or rattle can?
The Mr White surfacer 1000 comes in a spray can but I spray it into a paper funnel into my airbrush cup. I get a much thinner primer coat and is dry in 1/2 hour. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
kurth
Joined: 06 Feb 2018 Posts: 57
|
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ok so you are using one of the Mr Color lacquer thinners? Like Mr. Color thinner,or Mr. Leveling thinner? If so then I am at a loss to explain what happened , unless like someone else asked... maybe it is the primer.
I have not used Rustoleum primer so I am not sure how they would interact. Since you are airbrushing, you might really like the Mr. Surfacing Finisher 1500 ... It comes in white, gray, black, and mahogany. It is a great primer, and you thin it with the same thinner, the Mr. Color lacquer thinners.
If you are happy to use lacquer thinner, and even airbrush enamels. why not use lacquer paints? Mr. Color Lacquers, Tamiya LP ... MCW, Splash , Scale finishes, et al. Lacquers dry quickly and provide tough finishes. They are very forgiving and easy to spray.
good luck. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hurricane21
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 185 Location: Fayetteville NC
|
Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:08 am Post subject: |
|
|
kurth: I use rattle can primers. No specific reason, just what I've always done because it's cheap and easy to find at stores close by. Just got started airbrushing last fall.
I'm using Tamiya acrylics because that's what the LHS in my area stock; they no longer sell non-acrylics. Probably going to switch primers and order some enamels online. I still dislike online shopping so I typically try to find stuff locally first and then migrate online if I'm not happy with what I find in person.
It's Mr Hobby leveling thinner that I use. It's what the guy at the LHS recommended. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
kurth
Joined: 06 Feb 2018 Posts: 57
|
Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 8:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
Sounds like you are using good materials for paint. If I missed it in the thread, what kind of tape did you use? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
hurricane21
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 185 Location: Fayetteville NC
|
Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 9:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
The expensive Tamiya stuff. It doesn't leave residue but as it sits on the paint it leaves an indentation on the paint. I'm probably going to suck it up and order some enamels. I just like how easy it is being able to run to the store and pick up paint whenever I need it. None of the LHSs in my area stock old school paints anymore. Everything is acrylic. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
kurth
Joined: 06 Feb 2018 Posts: 57
|
Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2022 11:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have had Tamiya partially lift metallics. If the tape is leaving a texture in the paint the only thing I can think of is that the paint may not be fully cured.
I think someone else suggested de-tacking the tape. It is easier to grab a jar of paint at the store, but ordering paint is not too bad, it usually arrives within a week from my favorite online retailers. I wish I had a more definitive answer for you. Good luck. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|