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Need advice about fender flares

 
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 378
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 8:22 am    Post subject: Need advice about fender flares Reply with quote

A call to the experts. I'm trying fender flares for the first time
I did 6 small cuts perpendicular to the wheel opening, spaced about 1/8th inch
I then roughed up the flares by pulling outward these little fender sections
Then some flue, putty, sanding etc.
Photo below of progress so far.
I'm thinking there has to be a better way of doing this...
How do you flare fenders is basically what I need your help with.
Perhaps too late for this one but I want to do it better next time.
Thanks.
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jh63fan



Joined: 10 Sep 2021
Posts: 348
Location: Tarheel State

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, I like the way you are doing it. That is a true flare, not just a filler build-up. A little time with a dremel tool and some body filler and it should look great. Looks like you are workong on the Pearson GTO.
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 1296

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre, looks like a fabulous idea to me, and I will probably try it on my current build. The fenders on it are really not flared to the extreme that some are. The only problem might be if too much putty is used. If you could install little wedges of plastic in the voids instead, which I know would be a lot more work, you wouldn't have to worry about putty shrinkage in the future as much. I have some old builds that I look at now and the putty has really shrunk noticeably over the years. It doesnt happen right away, but if a lot of putty is used, it will eventually.
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Dan Belcher



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
Posts: 194

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd also try using some "sprue goo" since in some situations it's better/easier/stronger than putty. Take a half-empty bottle of Tamiya extra thin cement and drop some pieces of plastic from leftover sprues/parts trees into it and let it melt. Then you can paint it on and let it dry back into plastic where it really becomes solidly joined to the body and behaves just like the plastic on the rest of the body.
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jh63fan



Joined: 10 Sep 2021
Posts: 348
Location: Tarheel State

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should have mentioned this in my previous reply, but I use automotive polyester glazing for filler. Haven't had any shrinkage issues since it is catalyzed
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 378
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you fellows. Your advice is much appreciated.
Going light on putty, little plastic wedges and sprue goo. Check, check, check!
Oh yeah, jh63fan you guessed right. Pearson GTO built off MPC production car.
The body is marginal but fixable, the rest of the kit is just a blob of unuseable plastic so I have some work to do...
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 270

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like "sprue goo" as well. Overtime the glue evaporates and the plastic re-hardens. To reactive it I just add a little liquid glue.

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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 1296

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFX, I take it the small bottle with the white liquid is your sprue goo? I really need to give that a try. I would like to mix it up into a paste instead of a liquid. Is that possible? I'm going to be filling an area around some headlights and think that might just be what I need.
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Lionpride



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 245

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does the candle fit in this process?
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Dennis O
Board Moderator


Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 877
Location: Louisville, Ky.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far a sprue goo, I used MEK as the solvent. Much cheaper but use it in a ventilated space, no flames and don't get the stuff all over you.
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 270

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
AFX, I take it the small bottle with the white liquid is your sprue goo? I really need to give that a try. I would like to mix it up into a paste instead of a liquid. Is that possible? I'm going to be filling an area around some headlights and think that might just be what I need.


Yes the bottle with white liquid. The consistency can be changed by the amount of liquid cement you add. When you first add the liquid cement the mixture is very thin/viscous. As the cement gets absorbed by the plastic it changes to more like paste/filler. To make it thinner again just add more liquid.
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 270

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionpride wrote:
How does the candle fit in this process?


This picture was taken for a how-to I did on fabricating a roll cage, not relevant to creating fender flares.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/149806-how-to-build-a-roll-cage/
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 378
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wonderful input from all. thank you so much.
Here's what it looks like so far taking in the advice from the team.
I had wedges glued in already and I sanded down, putty touch ups and more sanding.
I wanted to sand down more than build up to avoid too much putty based on Mark's advice.
I did not try the sprue goo but definitely next time.
this may have been extra challenging due to the very hard and brittle styrene on this "beautiful" orange body.
Fronts opened up and flared out.
Rears openings moved back 3 mm and back side flared up to counteract the body tapering...if that makes any sense.

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