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Firefly
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 813 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:12 pm Post subject: Tip Needed: cementing body to chassis side rails |
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Bit of a gap I need to close, and in the past have used a rubber band to keep the body snug against the chassis/frame sides when cementing. Not the best method, so looking for any tips... thanks in advance. _________________ Bill Jobson is my real name. |
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Dennis O Board Moderator
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 882 Location: Louisville, Ky.
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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Ever considered not cementing the body? As my models age, sometimes windows fall out or a shift lever comes loose and I just take the body off and repairs are much easier. If that is not an option would adding a thin Evergreen plastic strip (obviously painted properly) down the frame rail close the gap sufficiently? _________________ Dennis
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity....... |
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spooker
Joined: 11 Feb 2018 Posts: 439
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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If I have to spread the body to get the chassis in (curved sides), I never glue the body to the chassis. If the body can slip straight on/off (straight sides), I glue in the most inconspicuous spot I can find, sometimes the firewall top and rear package shelf. Also depends on the era and body style. |
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Firefly
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 813 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the response - but here 's the thing: This is a '70s body and the casting settled a bit wide at the rocker panels-could use a little tucking in. Glueing to the frame rails will fix that nicely. _________________ Bill Jobson is my real name. |
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afx
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 270
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:00 am Post subject: |
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I have made blind cleats inside the body to help position the chassis or interior. This also provides a nice gluing surface. If possible add the cleats along the sides of the body and the chassis to give you a glueing surface
An example of a cleat is the square tubing glued to the back of this truck cab and the interior tub.
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afx
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 270
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:07 am Post subject: |
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Another example: the sides bow out on this '55 Chevy and didn't allow the body to fit the chassis properly. I glued cleats along the door sills and added mounting pins to the chassis.
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Firefly
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 813 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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afx: Impressive! _________________ Bill Jobson is my real name. |
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afx
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 270
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 6:58 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Bill. Hope it gives you some ideas.
JC |
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Pierre Rivard
Joined: 25 Feb 2021 Posts: 378 Location: Montreal, Canada
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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This is a super neat way to do it, particularly with 50's and early 60's cars with straight body sides.
More challenging with a 70's body with a lot so curves coming down.
Bill, hopefully if you're not painted yet, hot water dip and bend it in a bit? _________________ "When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra |
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Bob B
Joined: 22 Nov 2020 Posts: 72
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 9:58 am Post subject: |
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Great discussion and practical tips.
Thanks for sharing guys!
Bob B |
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MarkJ
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 1312
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 11:43 am Post subject: |
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You could also use your wife's hair dryer. If she doesnt mind. Leave it unglued if you can, but most amt 50's and 60's models have serious fit issues when it comes to body to chassis. Usually front to rear. You get the front to mate but then when you try to get the rear to come together it's like a major undertaking. I've had to use small screws sometimes in the past. |
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