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Battle of the birds, Baker vs. Stroker

 
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 9:16 pm    Post subject: Battle of the birds, Baker vs. Stroker Reply with quote

Spring is in the air and I can't wait so, you'll all be sick of me in a couple more weeks. (If you aren't already) Wink

A special lady friend of mine asked me to build these so I'm building them at the same time. Oddly enough the 1983 Thunderbird kit was actually based on, the Stroker ace car. Oddly enough they still found a way to screw it up because it's not accurate to either the film car OR a stocker. But in overall shape anyway, it's perfect for the film car.



First thing I noticed about the 1980 car, was the molded in hood pins. Correct me if I'm wrong but... wasn't this Thunderbird one of the later ones done??

Well again they ham handed it because after the hood pins I immediately noticed the headlight covers aren't tall enough and the door sill is too low. I kinda stopped inspecting at this point because these are supposed to be out of the box builds but... that door sill... it calls me....


I may leave the headlight covers be but I don't know if I can control myself on the doors. Believe me, these egregious errors will not be left unpunished! The higher ups at Revell Monogram are going to hear about this! It will not STAND! RISE UP MY MODELING BRETHREN AND... what's that? They have? Okay well, somebody let Salvinos know okay?

(Guys, please stop private messaging me to inform me I'm weird. Believe me... I know. And if you need me to reach you something? Please do not feel the need to inform me I'm tall before doing so. I've been quite aware of my height for some time.)
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DaveVan



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The kit headlight doors on the 83 are more correct for the movie car.....but still not 100%....but close.
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveVan wrote:
The kit headlight doors on the 83 are more correct for the movie car.....but still not 100%....but close.
I just noticed that they were covered over and it's grille wasn't screened over. I let Jim know where the bullet points were on the kit but, they're onto a couple other things right now.
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scooter64



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
Posts: 301

PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thought i was looking into the skunkworks hangar...

i've got both of those units standing by to become Dale Sr. #15 Wrangler cars...
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Struggling to get past a special project right now but, I wonder could somebody un-muddy the story of the 1980 T-birds for me? I know they came about later on, but why?
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DaveVan



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamtheWayne wrote:
Struggling to get past a special project right now but, I wonder could somebody un-muddy the story of the 1980 T-birds for me? I know they came about later on, but why?

Are you asking why the 80-82 Bird models came out last of all the Birds???
Because Ford wanted it that way!!!
When Monogram started the NASCAR project the first four kits were to be the 2 Buiks and 2 82 Bird's #9 and #15. But Ford had a new car coming and kinda suggested that Monogram do it, the 83, in place of the 82's. As the 82 would be mostly gone by the time the kits hit selves....they agreed. The 82 Bird was not done until Bob Johnson pushed for it to get more milage out of the 83 Bird chassis.....and he had access to the Bill Elliott Riverside car, a neighbor of mine in Mint Hill NC, so it got done. I made my own 82 bird out of a MPC Regal.....but not as nice as the Monogram kit.....glad they did it.
Monogram w/Slixx and custom door numbers
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Dave! I knew they were late to the party and I think that's a shrewd move on Bob Johnson's part. Pity they never took the chance to back track further. Nice build there.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First in the paint booth is Stroker Ace. He's a bit of a pushy fellow so we all let him go first. I chose metallic "Inferno" red by Dupli-Color for Stroker.

Mike's decals provide enough decals that an added set of contingency sponsors and nearly two complete cars can be built. I plan to eventually build one of these as Zenon Oil using the name decals. This one will be the Chicken Pit car before Stroker signed the contract. (Look for the giveaway)





I'll have to get better shots in the daylight for these, they turned out really well so far.

Next up is Brewster Baker and gang... just couldn't do it. I had to fix those doors. If I hadn't the decals would neither lay or look right so I fixed it. I should have went a mm higher but it's good where it is. I also took out that... whatever it was along the A pillar.



Here's a tip for you that applies to any two tone paint scheme with one dark and one light color, but especially, red and white! Once your white base is cured and ready to mask, cut a rectangle of bare metal foil. Then four squares and then eight triangles, then do this...



Using one corner as a handle, place one edge along the tape line, over the door gap. Press down one side only! Then take a piece of the backing paper and fold it so the shiny side the foil was on is face out. Tighten the crease between your fingernails and use the edge to push the foil into the gap and lay down the other side. When you run your tape over this, force it into the gap with a fingernail or blade of thin plastic.

You have just reduced your chance of a ruined paint job because the paint wicked into the gaps and onto the white. This is the biggest mistake most people make on a two-tone job. I hope it's a help to some of you, it has been to me.





In my research I've discovered the Brewster Baker car IS the redressed Winston show car and it appeared in both films. As a driver car in Stroker alongside a noticeably Allison Monte Carlo.

Both cars have a white interior so the chassis builds shouldn't take me longer than this weekend.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 2:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As an aside, I'd like to add this about the red and white. Another place people make a big mistake is, they try to sand in the edge. Were I to go right now and sand around the edges to even them out a bit, red paint dust will get on the freshly roughed white surface. You will spend hours trying to get rid of the pink hue, only to dip and strip, or mask and respray the lighter color. Here's my rather unconventional way of avoiding all that mess.

Odds are you're going to clear coat the model in the end, so here's an easy... we'll call it a cheat, to help level out that line. First thing you need to do is clear the line, without getting red paint dust ground into the white paint. I've found the perfect medium for this. It's outrageous. It's STUPENDOUS! IT'S MIRACULOUS! It's the Little Giant Glass Cut... no, that's Saturday morning cartoons. It is in fact... paper towels. Cheaper the better. (Great for polishing resin parts too)

I use Great value el cheapo super garbage paper towels. Do not use tissues or anything scented or with oils!

Fold one down to a comfortable size, and use the paper towel to rub down your paint line. The paper towels are actually abrasive to the point and should never be used on glasses or visors.

Point of fact, if one were of a mind, the entire car can be prep polished before the final wax this way.

The abrasive towel will tear down the ridges of the separation line slowly while trapping most particles in itself. Keep turning and flipping, changing the towel often as they wear out quickly.

No matter how hard you rub, this will never get rid of the edges completely. But once they're clean and even (Here's the unorthodox part) and I make sure there's no red on the white, I bath the car again, drying with a clean terry cloth towel and tack ragging again, I'll shoot a couple coats of clear.

Two ways I could do this. If parts of the line are being a booger, I'll re mask the red and give the white a couple shots of clear, then peel and hit the whole car.

Now, when that cures I can safely wet sand the entire car with 3,000 grit, paying close attention to those separation edges. Wet sanding the clear levels the surface, hiding the edges while consistently washing the body clear of red or white paint dust. Polish it all out and you're ready for decaling.

A lot of guys will scoff at clear coating before the rest of the paint is smooth and ready but, as I said, this is a cheat. A way for guys to get a little better paint job with a little less trouble.

Once you're polished out and decaled you can add a final clear coat if you wish.

Don't think you have to spend a lot of time polishing either. I use a 3M, 3,000 grit finishing sponge until the surface is completely even. Then I go into my paper towels (unless I used automotive clear other than Dupli-Color) until it's smooth but dull.

From this point it's up to you on how to proceed. A good wax? Maybe a nice airbrushed coat of Futureshine? Or maybe you're pleased with the results and ready to try it on your next model? Right on! Do-it to-it and enjoy your shiny new thing. Smile
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